Maintaining Johnson/Evinrude 9.9 & 15 hp outboards 2 cycle 1993 – 2005   (Converting to Electric Start)

Note -- some of these articles have pictures that require a possible long load time, especially if you are on a dial up connection

This conversion is less confusing in finding the right parts as there was only one version of this series of motors

Converting over to a electric start, charging system :  However this conversion is a lot more complicated as far as parts needed than 74-92 motors & I see no real reason here to NOT go the full blown charging system here.  Simply because it being a newer motor & the under the flywheel parts needed for the electronics charging will also be more readily available.

These electric start flywheels have the gear teeth machined directly into the flywheel instead of into a steel ring that is used on the aluminum flywheels.  You will note by viewing these flywheels that the electric start motor now has NO method of emergency rope starting.

1993 - 2007 rope start flywheel	1993 - 2007 electric start flywheel

The starter motor mounts are already incorporated into the engine block & the plastic flywheel cover used on both also has provisions for the starter gear clearance. 

1993 - 2007 rope start electronics under the flywheel	1993 - 2007 electric start electronics under the flywheel

The starter button is buried at the base of the tiller handle & at the rear of the shift lever.  Stuffing the new wiring harness into the small hole in the handle base & still having enough room for the button unit can be challenging.   This starter button incorporates a neutral safety switch with the shift lever, by not allowing proper alignment with the button to enable the switch if the shift lever is not in neutral. 

There is no electrical connection between the starter button & the starter switch.  The starter switch itself is a simple contact unit with the wires going to a starter solenoid that is tucked in between the fuel pump & the electric starter motor on the port side of the motor. 

Here the starter button is buried behind the shift lever.	Showing the fuel pump on the left, the starter solenoid in the middle & red wires, with starter on the right

There is a Phillips screw head between the starter button & the shift lever pivot shaft.  This screw allows adjustment to be made to synchronize the starter button to the neutral position of the shift lever.

A voltage rectifier is needed on this conversion & is located behind the starter motor as seem in the photos below.  Depending on the year, I have seen 2 locations of the rectifier.

The red (power) wire goes to the large terminal of the solenoid & the black (ground wire) is grounded to a bolt, usually on the intake manifold.

Voltage rectifier located behind starter motor from a 96	Voltage rectifier located behind starter  & lower  under coils from a 93

Here I suggest you try to purchase cannibalized parts off a donor motor, as if you purchased all the parts new separately, it would possibly not be a worthwhile project.